GAL is Mind
Japan is notorious for its homogeneity, pushing a set of standards that every citizen must follow. In response to peer pressure, many people struggle with their mental health as they try to fit in. For women especially, they are expected to adhere to views held up by patriarchal systems that affect societal roles and beauty. However, Japan has seen several countercultures rise up to fight against the country’s restrictions, one of which being Gyaru.
Gyaru is a female-dominated subculture that is meant to rebel against sexist standards. Instead of adhering to conservative fashion standards and having pale skin, Gyarus wear bold clothes and tan their skin. They act in ways that are seen as inappropriate, but are meant to fight the idea of women being quiet and submissive. The subculture’s popularity peaked in the 1990s-2000s where numerous sub-styles emerged within their own communities. While the community’s popularity died down in the 2010s, the subculture’s iconic impact has led to it becoming a character trope in anime and manga. Now, Gyaru has reemerged in the 2020s with a modernized twist in both Japan and Western countries.
KOGAL: The High-School Gal
A Kogal is as a status, combining the word “gal” with “kōkōsei” (high school) to describe a Gyaru who is in high school. Japanese high schools have their own distinct uniforms and sets of guidelines that describe the ways a student’s appearance could be considered appropriate or inappropriate. Teenage Gyarus that wanted to express themselves blended elements of Gyaru fashion with their uniforms, adopting a cute version of femininity to embrace their youth and freedom.
Today, Kogal is still encouraged for young beginners. Teenage Gyarus outside of Japan are encouraged to experiment, especially if their schools require uniforms. Lightly-colored cardigans, large bow ties, heightened skirts and loosened socks are common fashion elements. For hair, ponytails, pigtails and loose waves are typical. Kogal makeup during the 1990s-2000s was toned down in comparison to the typical Gyaru aesthetic due to school restrictions, but modern Kogals experiment with false lashes and lip gloss.
TSUYOME: The Tanned Gal
Tsuyome is a broad category of Gyaru that includes looks that involve tanning and heavy makeup. It originated from Ganguro (“dark tan”), an early sub-style of Gyaru. The tans of naturally pale Gyarus are typically moderate, but Ganguro and its short-lived descendants (Manba, Yamanba) took the tanning to extreme levels. Tsuyome, on the other hand, keeps the tanning to a moderate level, but there are also naturally tan/dark skin Gyarus that have adopted the Tsuyome aesthetic.
While the Tsuyome look is considered broad, Tsuyome Gyarus tend to carry themselves in a cool, yet sexy manner. Some common elements include animal print (zebra and cheetah, specifically), blonde hair, fuzzy leg warmers and mini-shorts. Tsuyome makeup often creates a button nose using heavy amounts of highlighter and a droopy-eyed look using lashes, eyeliner and highlighter. Hairstyles are usually long and wavy with bangs, either side-swept or blunt. Today, Tsuyome is popular due to how broad it is. It can be a way for Gyarus new to the community to experiment and learn about old-school Gyaru without worrying about specific elements.
AGEJO: The Devilish Gal
Agejo is an old-school sub-style of Gyaru that is inspired by the hostess industry in Japan. Hostesses are women employed by night clubs and bars to offer companionship to male customers in exchange for money. While hostesses do not have sex or intimate interactions with their clients, there is still a stigma surrounding the industry due to how openly flirtatious the women are. Some Agejo Gyarus worked as hostesses, but the aesthetic was spread around by Koakuma Ageha magazine and reached Gyarus who were not working in the hostess industry.
Like Tsuyome, Agejo is meant to provide a sexy form of femininity for Gyarus to adopt, but Agejo comes with a glamorous air. Outfits tend to stay within a color scheme of purple, pink, and black. Common fashion elements include frilled skirts, heeled boots, corsets, bows, and long, acrylic nails. Their hair is often inspired by the “beehive” look with blunt bangs. The makeup looks are similar to those in Tsuyome, but Agejo Gyarus use colored eye contacts. Today, Agejo is one of the most recognized types of Gyaru.
HIME: The Princess Gal
Hime is a sub-style of Gyaru that is inspired by fairytale princesses. Hime and Agejo can be considered two sides of the same coin as both rose in popularity around the mid-2000s and take inspiration from Koakuma Ageha. However, where Agejo is considered sexy and glamorous, Hime is cute and elegant. Hime is also compared to Elegant Gothic Lolita (EGL), specifically the “sweet” sub-style. However, these two should not be mistaken for each other: EGL bases itself on a sense of cute modesty with elements of Victorian-era fashion, while Hime is based on Rococo-era fashion specifically and exaggerates its cuteness with excessive amounts of accessories.
While traditional Hime is considered costly, modern Hime Gyarus often experiment with Western and Japanese brands to complete their looks. The typical Hime hairstyle is known for being extremely voluminous, and this is often formed using multiple wigs or extensions. Hair accessories such as large bows and tiaras are common. A-line dresses are preferred over shirts and mini skirts/shorts, and outfits often fit a pink-and-white color scheme. Other fashion elements include ruffles, pearls, high heels and elaborate nail art. Makeup looks emphasize the eyes with false lashes and eyeliner to make them appear rounder and more doll-like.
Gyaru Today
As mentioned before, Gyaru has waned in popularity in the 2010s but is making a comeback today. It is not solely due to the fashion, but because the message behind Gyaru is appreciated by so many. Gyaru was first created by Japanese women to fight against the mold they were forced to fit in. Now, Gyaru as a community has become more diverse as non-Japanese women have joined in. These women, though seen as crude and promiscuous, still hold their heads up high in their revolution. While conditions for women across the world may have improved since the early 2000s, many are still struggling under patriarchal expectations. The fashion and mindset of Gyaru offers a relief from that, a way for some women to be unapologetically loud in a world that expects them to be silent.
Written by Jordan Pierce, Photography: Mary Le, Design: Diana Moraila, Social Media: Zaara Hashmy, Styling: Candace Obi, Videography: Kadi Lenu