Once Upon A Dream
“I know you / I walked with you once upon a dream…”
On May 6, 2024, the streets of Fifth Avenue will be adorned with photographers and fans waiting to see the finest fabrics be transformed into the boldest creations of the year. The Met Gala never ceases to grab New York’s attention and that of the rest of the digital world. The event, nicknamed fashion’s biggest night of the year, brings together designers, models, singers, actors, philanthropists, politicians, athletes, businessmen, and other influential people. Each year, they gather on the first Monday in May to celebrate the grand opening of the newest exhibition within the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The exhibition for 2024 is entitled “Sleeping Beauty: Reawakening Fashion.” What does this entail? Princess dresses? Not quite.
“...I know you / That look in your eyes is so familiar a gleam…”
A “Sleeping Beauty,” in this context, is an exquisite garment that has been professionally preserved to protect its integrity. Either because of age or the intricate design, it is so fragile that it cannot be directly touched by human hands, much less be worn by a model. In some cases, the measures are so drastic that the garment cannot be put on a standing mannequin as the gravitational pull could stretch it beyond repair. So, the safest way to showcase the garments to the public is to have them lying down behind a glass barrier. This is where the imagery of a sleeping beauty derives. The exhibition is expected to consist of archival pieces never before shown to the public. Recognizable designs by Christian Dior and pieces from the 17th-century English Elizabethan era are expected to be featured displays. With the curation reflecting the beauty of the past, should gala goers rummage through the archives to find a flattering fit? Maybe…but the gala’s dress code hints at another path.
“…And I know it's true, that visions are seldom what they seem…”
The Met Gala’s dress code is “The Garden of Time,” which is not to be mistaken with the exhibition title itself. Attendees are expected to gather their inspiration from attending the spectacular event - in theory. What does “The Garden of Time” mean? Similar to the exhibit’s title, it is not as literal as the phrase implies; the guests are not expected to attend in all florals or dress for a garden party. Instead, the title is taken from J.G. Ballard’s 1962 short story, “The Garden of Time,” an allegory for humanity’s never-ending cycle of creation, destruction, and re-creation. The term “creation” is almost as broad as they get, but at its core, it could not be more straightforward. In fashion, creation can refer to a silhouette, fabric, or technique, while destruction refers to the fall (decline in popularity) of a silhouette, fabric, or technique. On a more metaphorical level, creation and re-creation can refer to a rebirth or revival. With the theme and its definition established, there are a few intriguing avenues attendees can take when curating an outfit that will dazzle and delight millions of envious onlookers.
“...But if I know you / I know what you'll do…”
Guests will most likely interpret the dress code in one of three ways: literally, innovatively, or reflectively. The literal interpretations may consist of ethereal princess gowns and tiaras. A central reference point would be any Elie Saab couture collection, especially the collections from the early 2000s. A reflective interpretation would include pulling from archival pieces, as these guests would reflect on past influential designers. Such archival pieces would likely come from ground-breaking designers like Alexander McQueen, Yves Saint Laurent, or Charles James. An innovative interpretation would be a custom look from a fresh-faced designer who wears a new creative lens. Guo Pei, China’s first Haute Couture designer, creates garments that tell stories through their use of sculpture, textiles, and embroidery. Her Spring/Summer 2018 Couture collection, entitled “Elysium,” is a great example of such. Another groundbreaking couturier is Robert Wun, who uses sharp silhouettes to enhance his modern yet edgy persona. His 2023 Spring / Summer couture collection, inspired by his favorite horror movies, is a notable collection of his to reference. Other designers that should also be considered are Ronald van der Kemp, Iris Van Herpen, Miss Sohee, and countless others.
“...You'll love me at once / The way you did once upon a dream.”
No single interpretation is correct, and no interpretation is wrong, but it would be a lie to say that they should all be held in the same reverence. With the amount of notoriety the Met Gala has gained within the fashion industry, the time and energy a person puts into a Met Gala look is now seen as a direct reflection of their fashion knowledge. The amount of research an attendee does beforehand will be more apparent than ever this year. On the first Monday in May, the single hope fashion fans have is that those lucky enough to attend such an exciting event would have the gumption to deliver a look that’s on-brand for the night: a night most people will only ever visit once upon a dream.
Written by Parker Elkins, Photography: Ezra Huang, Social Media: Clara Valkoun