Virgine Viard, Karl Lagerfeld’s predecessor, took the throne when she inherited the role of creative director of Chanel after Lagerfeld’s passing in 2019. Lagerfeld famously worked as the head designer of Chanel, beginning his reign in the 1980s. Chanel, at the time, was teetering on the edge of social extinction, as it had lost its edge and youthful appeal. Young consumers began to equate the brand to what the older generations would wear due to their formal tweed suits and long evening wear. Lagerfeld burst onto the scene in 1983 and completely flipped the brand on its head. From mini dresses, to swimwear, to fluffy flowy gowns - the brand received a youthful yet stylish revival. And just like that, Chanel was back on top. Fast forward to 2019 and the torch was passed onto Viard, who had studied under Lagerfeld since 1987. However, Viard never worked as a designer, but instead as an intern, then coordinator, then director of fashion departments within the brand. Her job was to translate Lagerfeld’s sketches to the head seamstresses in order to turn the sketch into a physical garment. While it made sense that someone so close to Lagerfeld would take his place, there was a feeling of anticipation as to Viard’s design aesthetic, as there had been no previous record to go off of. 

In 2020, Viard debuted her first Chanel Haute Couture collection. Almost the entire collection was in a black and white color palette, which included below-the-knee skirts, ankle length dresses, collared blouses, white-tinted tights, stark white crew socks and black heeled loafers. This was all in contrast to Lagerfeld’s final Chanel Haute Couture collection in 2019, in which bubbly dresses were made in pinks, blues and purples and were accented by intricate embroidery and flowy feathers. Not to say one aesthetic is better than another, but it is obvious that the brand took a sharp left turn with the change in leadership. The designers drew inspiration from very different sources resulting in widely different aesthetics. For instance, the final look from Lagerfeld’s 2019 Haute Couture collection came to Lagerfeld in a dream, and the rest of the collection was created from that starting point. Viard’s 2020 Haute Couture collection took inspiration from Coco Chanel’s childhood as an orphan raised in a convent. Again, one is not better than the other, but there are blatantly obvious differences. 

After five short years, however, Viard exited from her role as creative director. This news was announced in June 2024, and a successor has yet to be announced. Chanel is a mammoth of the industry and one of the most recognizable names in fashion. One begs to ask: how has the lead position not yet been filled? Perhaps they are taking their time deciding, or perhaps no one wants to take on this daunting role. From both a business and creative standpoint, the lack of leadership could soon prove to be detrimental. 

The 2024 Fall/Winter Haute Couture Fashion Week took place in June, post-Viard’s exit. Chanel, rather than cancel their show, had the four heads of Chanel’s four ateliers (or fashion studios) come together to curate a collection themselves, without a central leader. Thankfully, the show came together beautifully, but how long can this process last? A single voice steering the ship is far safer than four distinct voices. A single creative vision is far more efficient  than four differing visions. Now, nearly six months later and fast approaching the next Haute Couture season in January, Chanel must decide if they will take the same gamble or will hire someone to lead the way. 

One of the most discussed candidates is Hedi Slimane, who just recently left from his creative director role at Celine. Other notable designers that recently exited their creative director roles are Jeremy Scott and Pierpaolo Piccoli who exited from Moschino and Valentino respectively. Neither have established where or if they will be creative directors for another brand anytime soon. 

A decision has to be made, and the longer it is drawn out, the more anticipation will grow within the fashion community. The sun has yet to set on the Chanel empire, and hopefully a new leader will soon emerge.

Written by Parker Elkins, Photography: Ezra Huang, Design: Alyssa Lazarchik, Social Media: Rena Elhachem, Styling: Isabella Garcia