Vivienne Westwood. A woman reputed for her provocative clothing style and the popularization of punk in mainstream fashion, died on December 20th, 2022 at 81. Westwood was a notable figure in the campaign for sustainable fashion and an open critic of capitalism. Widely considered as one of the most influential and innovative fashion designers of the 20th century, she will forever be remembered as a pioneering fashion icon. Her designs were worn by big-name A-listers such as Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Elton John, and even Princess Diana. Westwood was a force to reckon with and through her innovation and rebellion against conventional fashion, she was able to become a household name, forever leaving her mark on the world.

It all began in 1971 when Westwood opened a small boutique in London called ‘Let it Rock’. The shop would change names to coincide with Westwood’s collection releases, and reached peak popularity under the name ‘SEX’, as the punk aesthetic was being embraced by the general public. The shop transformed straps and zips of obscure sexual fetishism and bondage into fashion, inspiring the D.I.Y. aesthetic, which the mass media labeled as ‘Punk Rock.’ After the adoption of punk into mainstream media, the shop was renamed ‘Worlds End’. The boutique still stands today under the same name it adopted 40 years ago and maintains the same aesthetic as designed by Westwood and her then partner Malcolm McLaren.

Vivienne Westwood had an outstanding career in the industry for five decades. During this time she redefined how we as a society dress, earning her global recognition as well as Damehood, an honor only given to those who had a pre-eminent contribution in a field of activity at the national level. Let us take a look back at Westwood’s most iconic and rebellious fashion moments as described by Elle Magazine. The ‘Pirates’ collection in 1981 during London Fashion Week was her first runway show and it looked “at plundering history and the Third World”. Westwood reimagined techniques with the way she looked into historical designs and used cuts of clothing that starkly contrasted the trends going on at the time. The 1990 Paris Fashion Week exhibition, known as the “Portrait” show, showcased corsets with French Rococo-paintings printed on them. Westwood took the 18th-century corset style and modernized it utilizing the pieces as outerwear instead of undergarments. She subverted the traditional purpose of corsets and reclaimed them as a symbol of female empowerment. The portrait corset is still a popular piece worn today and many brands have adopted versions of the garment, trying to capitalize on her success. Westwood continued to make waves in the industry, but many would agree one of her most notable looks came from 2008’s Sex & The City: The Movie establishing the go-to bridal look after designing Carrie Bradshaw’s wedding dress. The famous “cloud dress” became a “must have” for future brides to be, and inspired a new collection for Westwood.

Vivienne Westwood was not only an astounding fashion designer but an outspoken activist for environmentalism. At her 2012 London Fashion Week show, Westwood walked the runway donning a t-shirt calling for a “climate revolution”, which is Westwood’s personal campaign to fight the climate crisis. She was a firm believer that public opinion is the greatest weapon to fight overconsumption and climate change, so she utilized her shows to spread the message and bolster her platform. In 2015, Westwood orchestrated a “fash mob” on the streets of London before her SS16 Red Label show. This “mob” had models carrying placards reading ‘Climate Revolution’, and ‘Fracking Is A Crime’. In 1992 Westwood received an Order of the British Empire from Queen Elizabeth for her contributions to environmentalism. While exiting Buckingham Palace, she spun lifting her dress, flashing the press, showing off her anti-establishment spirit. Activism was a pivotal point in her career and she made paramount changes fighting for what she believed.

Westwood’s impact spread across the globe and she was highly respected by all who came to know her. She leaves a lasting legacy behind and her passing has been felt around the globe. Westwood’s funeral was held on February 16th, 2023, where friends and family of the late designer gathered to pay respects. However, even in death, Westwood was going to have her guests arrive in chic fashion. The funeral’s dress code was inspired by a quote from the designer: “When in doubt, dress up”. Many guests arrived in her past designs, covered head to toe in tartan, corsets, and voluminous skirts. The display of fashion exhibited Westwood’s style throughout her career while honoring her passing and work. Many celebrities were in attendance, including the likes of Victoria Beckham, Kate Moss, Helena Bonham Carter, and Anna Wintour. “The Queen of British fashion” left her mark on both the fashion industry and the world – there is no doubt she will inspire generations to come.

R.I.P

 Dame Vivienne Isabel Westwood

1941-2022

Written by Lauren Carmona, Photography: Maha Afzal, Graphic Design: Izzy K, Social Media: Krisha Atreya